Photographed by Jennifer Livingston

Tory breaks down the big trends of the Spring/Summer 2016 collection.

Crossing Lines
“To contrast the more natural and organic parts of the collection, we included a number of design elements that emphasized simple shapes and clean lines — such as criss-cross details. You can see them in the construction of the guipure lace show opener and on the back of our leaf-print gown.”

Texture Message
“There’s a lot of texture in this collection — in the lace, the tweeds, the fringe… I especially love the smocking we’ve done; it’s a technique we’ve carried over from last season. Smocking adds shape, detail and has a lovely bohemian and feminine feel to it.”

Opposites Attract
“Spring is about interesting contrasts: high and low, natural and shine, translucency and the opaque… I love the way this collection mixed humbler canvas and linen fabrics with opalescent fil-coupé and knits with metallic threading…”

A Short Story
“We experimented with a lot of proportions, including shorter cropped tops — which is new for us. We paired those with both high-waist, wide-leg pants and full skirts. We also did a few cropped trousers.”

Special Effects
“We thought a lot about embellishment this season, from distressed gold foil over embroidery to intricate towel stitching, accented with beads and crystals. There’s an emphasis on texture throughout.”

The Shining
“Spring was inspired by beauty found in unexpected places. We thought about how, as time passes, it leaves an imprint on things — a patina that creates a more beautiful effect over the years. We played with that concept of shine and shimmer throughout the collection, from iridescent organza dresses to sportier knits made from incredible Lurex yarns. It’s a trend we continued into the accessories: oxidized jewelry, shoes with gold sculptural heels, handbags with opalescent edges or light-refracting pearl beads…”

Experience the Spring/Summer 2016 runway up close.

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